A
Absolute /ˈæbsəluːt/: Is the natural raw material obtained from plans, resins or flowers, etc. after extraction by solvent, followed by alcohol extraction (to eliminate solid vegetable wax: stearoptene). In French, it is called “Absolue” or “Absolu.” It is very costly! From plant: Ciste Labdanum Absolute, from leaf: Violet leaf Absolute, from the flower: Jasmine Absolute, Tuberose Absolute, Rose Absolute. (Rose Absolute in our Box Rose accord)
Accord /əˈkɔːd/: In perfumery, this term signifies a harmonious blend/combination of 2 or many raw materials.
B
Balenciaga: Parfums Balenciaga was founded by the Spanish-born Paris couturier Cristobal Balenciaga (1895-1972) with the launching of his first perfume, 'Le Dix', in 1947, a chypre floral composed by Francis Fabron.
Balsamic note /bɔːlˌsæmɪk nəʊt/: A term used in perfumery to describe the sweet, soft but heavy and warm fragrance of balsams and resins. For example Benjoin, Tolu, Peru,.
C
Calone: (trade name Calone 1951) is a synthetic raw material, discovered by Pfizer in 1966. It evokes the scent of fresh "sea breeze" with a salty, mineral effect and to some, a fresh oyster smell. New West for her Aramis (1989) is the first fragrance to use Calone, at around 1.2%. This marvelous sea scent is available in Olfactozoom - Mysterious fragrance raw material - Box A.
Cis-3-hexanol: is a very commonly used green note in perfumery, in a muguet, gardénia, jasmine accord, etc. Finding this natural cut grass scent in Olfactozoom - Mysterious fragrance raw material - Box A.
D
Distillation (Hydro Distillation) /ˈhaɪdrəʊ ˌdɪstɪˈleɪʃn/: Hydro/water distillation is one of the simplest, oldest processes for obtaining essential oils from plants. The raw material is put into a container entirely covered with water. The mix of plant material and water is made to boil. The steam carries the volatile odorant molecules to the chilled condenser. The odorant molecules, thanks to the condensation, turn back into liquid, providing the essential oil. Hydrodistillation is used to extract Essential oil Turkish Rose (Rosa Damascena) and Neroli.
Steam distillation (Steam Distillation) /stiːm ˌdɪstɪˈleɪʃn/: In steam distillation, plant material is placed into a steam distillation chamber (above and separately from water, while in hydrodistillation, the raw material is covered with water). Steam is forced into the chamber. In the same principle as hydrodistillation, the steam helps carry the plant's volatile molecules and takes them to the chilled condenser. These molecules will turn back into liquid, given essential oil. Eucalyptus oil and rosemary oil are obtained by this method.
E
Enfleurage /Essential Oil Extraction with Cold Fat/: It is an extraction method that extracts odorant molecules from heat-sensitive flowers such as Tuberose and Jasmine. However, it is a very expensive technique since it has a very low yield. Nowadays, the Enfleurage method carried out on a large scale remains only in France's Grasse region. This laborious extraction principle is based on the high absorption power of fat to absorb odorant molecules from flowers. Flowers (such as tuberose and jasmine) are placed on top of the fat. This layer of flowers is changed every few days. The unrenewed fat is saturated with flower oil. In the final stage, oil is extracted from fat and alcohol, then isolated, given Absolute.
Expression /ɪkˈspreʃn/: Expression or cold pressing, is only used in the production of citrus oils. The term expression refers to a physical process in which the essential oil glands in the peel are crushed or broken to release the oil.
F
Farnesol: is present in many essential oils such as Tuberose, Citronella, Neroli, Lemongrass, and Rose. It is a colorless and oily liquid, synthetically produced for use in the reconstitution of flowers in fragrance.
Frankincense /ˈfræŋkɪnsens/: Also called Olibanum or Incense, used in both early and modern perfumery. A fragrant gum resin exuded from the trunks and branches of several species of small trees of the botanical classification Boswellia. It smells fresh, balsamic, smoky, and leathery. Method of extraction: distillation or extraction by solvent. Mentioned as in Invictus Victory, Squid Zoologist.
G
Gardenia / ɡɑːˈdiːniə /: Gardenia plant originating from India, China, and Japan but grown in many other places. However, it is extremely difficult to extract this natural essential oil, so Gardenia in perfumery is a reconstitution accord. The flower has a scent reminiscent of jasmine, tuberose, and green rhubarb (which can be replicated by acétate styrallyle). We can find Gardenia smell in Gardenia Chanel, Jolie Madame, L'Air du Temps, and Ma Griffe.
Grapefruit oil /ˈɡreɪpfruːt ɔɪl/: or Pamplemousse essence in French. It is obtained by the cold expression method from the fruit peel of the grapefruit tree (Citrus paradisi), originating from West India but now is widely grown. The biggest production countries are the USA( Florida, California), Israel, and Argentina. Harvest time: Winter and Summer. The characteristic molecule of Essence of Grapefruit is Nootkatone, which has a very fresh rhubarb, woody vetiver-like smell. Nootkatone is Jean Claude Ellena's favorite molecule, which he has used in Terre d'Hermès. Grapefruit essence brings the brightness, bittersweet, and a touch of sulfuric tonality to a fragrance, such as Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune (1999, Guerlain), and Eau de Pamplemousse Rose (2009, Hermès).
H
Hedione (Methyl Dihydrojasmonate): is a synthetic raw material with fresh jasmine, citrus, and anisic smell. It was patented by Firmenich in 1960. The first use is in Eau Sauvage Christian Dior, 1966, by Edmond Roudnitska.
This fresh petal jasmine scent is available in Box A in Olfactozoom - Mysterious fragrance raw material - Box A.
This fresh petal jasmine scent is available in Box A in Olfactozoom - Mysterious fragrance raw material - Box A.
Honey /ˈhʌni/: Honey (or Miel) note in perfumery normally is translated using synthetic raw materials. The honey note goes very well with fruity and tobacco notes. In perfumes : Chergui Serge Lutens (2005), A*Men Pure Havane (2011), Elie Saab Le Parfum (2011), Tom Ford Bitter Peach (2020),...Any other perfume that you have smelt honey note?
I
Ionone Beta: is a synthetic raw material. It has a violet, red fruity, and woody smell. This raw material is widely used in cosmetics, laundry care, or perfumes. One of the most famous perfumes contains Ionone beta is Eau parfumée au Thé vert Bvlgari (1992). In addition, you can also find this fragrance at Olfactozoom - Mysterious Fragrance Raw Materials - Box A.
Iso E Super is an interesting synthetic raw material with cedarwood, woody amber, and a slightly incense smell. "It mixes well with everything and anything you add to it," says perfumer Sophia Grojsman. Besides, there are also a lot of people who can't smell the scent of this raw material. Famous fragrances contain Iso E Super such as Molecule 01 Escentric Molecules, Bleu de Chanel, Encre Noire Lalique ... This ‘fabulous’ scent is available in Box A in Olfactozoom - Mysterious fragrance raw material - Box A.
J
J'Adore (Dior): is a floral fruity fragrance composed by Calice Becker (Givaudan), launched in 1999 by Christian Dior. This fragrance marked the beginning of the floral-fruity fragrance era. The floral notes in J'adore are "undefined", so it is difficult to "pinpoint" what exactly are the flowers in this composition. It is a well-balanced and harmonious floral bouquet. The top notes are extremely radiant with fresh green fruity pear, melon, and citrus, well wrapped up by "impressionist" style-floral and musky woody.
Jasmine /ˈdʒæzmɪn/: There are over 200 species of Jasmine but only the 2 most appreciated in perfumery are Jasminum grandiflorum and Jasminum sambac. Jasmine is a very delicate flower, that needs to be harvested in the early morning and extracted on the same date, using extraction by solvent. It needs around 7 million flowers to obtain 1 kg of Absolute. Jasmine Absolute is green, fruity, rich, sensual, and animal. Since the yield of Jasmine essential oil is very low, the cost of this raw material is very high. Jasmine Sambac is found in J'Adore Dior (1999), Imperial Tea By Kilian (2014), and Gucci Bloom (2017).
L
Lavender /ˈlævəndə(r)/: Lavender or Lavande, derives from the word lavare (Italian), means laver (French) - washing. In ancient times, the Romans used Lavender to fragrance bathwater and clothes. In the Renaissance, tanneries used it to reduce the smell of leather. Quickly later, Lavender became an indispensable ingredient in Cologne. Depending on the harvesting method, the obtained essential oils will have different facets. If we harvest the Lavender and dry them in the sun for 24 hours, the essential oil will smell more floral, since agrestic notes were evaporated during the drying process. If we extract immediately the harvest lavender, the essential oil will be fresher, greener, and more agrestic. Two extraction methods for Lavender: Steam distillation, giving Lavender Essential Oil. Extraction by solvent, giving Lavender Absolute. Famous and iconic scents containing Lavender: Jicky Guerlain (1899), English Lavender Yardley (1913), Pour un homme Caron (1934),...
You can smell Lavender Essential oil in Olfactozoom - Mysterious fragrance raw material - Box A.
You can smell Lavender Essential oil in Olfactozoom - Mysterious fragrance raw material - Box A.
Le Labo (in French means “laboratory”) was founded by Eddie Roschi and Fabrice Penot in 2006 in New York City. In 2014, Le Labo was purchased by Estée Lauder. Some famous and strong signature fragrances of the brand such as Another 13, Santal 33, and Rose 31, ...
M
Mimosa /mɪˈməʊzə/: Mimosa (Acacia decurrens) brings floral green powdery cocooning facets to a fragrance. Mimosa flowers are very "sensitive", hence they need to be extracted immediately after the harvest. Mimosa is extracted by solvent extraction, giving Absolute. Depending on the manufacturers, absolute Mimosa can have different facets. Some manufacturers will extract flowers, leaves, and branches, hence the smell will be greener than in others where only flowers are extracted.
Some of the iconic Mimosa fragrances : Mimosa pour Moi (1992, L’Artisan Parfumeur), Mimosa & Cardamom (2015, Jo Malone), Infusion de Mimosa (2016, Prada), Une fleur de Cassie (2000, Frédéric Malle).
Do you like mimosas?
Some of the iconic Mimosa fragrances : Mimosa pour Moi (1992, L’Artisan Parfumeur), Mimosa & Cardamom (2015, Jo Malone), Infusion de Mimosa (2016, Prada), Une fleur de Cassie (2000, Frédéric Malle).
Do you like mimosas?
Mint /mɪnt/: There are many different species of Mint, however, the 3 most important species are Peppermint (M.piperita), Spearmint (M.spicata), and Wild mint (M.arvensis). Peppermint and Spearmint are the most used types in the perfumery and flavor industry. That's why sometimes many people find it uncomfortable to use a minty perfume because it reminds them of the smell of cough medicine or toothpaste. Mint essential oil has been used as an herbal remedy for stomach upset and nausea thanks to its cooling and restorative properties. Two famous minty scents that you can try: Herba Fresca Aqua Allegoria (Guerlain, 1999) and Mentha Religiosa (Roos & Roos, 2016).
N
Nez /ˌnez/: “Nez in French or Nose in English, a slang word for “perfumer”. However, some perfumers prefer not to be called "Nez" since composing fragrances not only requires a good nose but also needs to have a creative and logical mind. It like you don't call a painter "Hand" or a musician "Ear" 😉!!!
Note /nəʊt/: There are 2 common meanings of "Note" in perfumery:
- The first one, “Note” in perfumery describes a phase of a fragrance that we perceive after using the perfume. Usually, it is divided into 3 phases: Top/head notes, middle/heart notes, and base notes. There is a correlation among phases, for example, the top note has high volatility, but low substantivity, while the base note has low volatility but high substantivity. However, be careful, a fragrance is very complex and these 3 phases are relative.
- The second meaning would be the character of a fragrance, for example, Floral note, Chypre note, Fougere note, Green note, etc.
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- Tags: absolute, Enfleurage, Expression, Distillation, Calone, Balsamic, Accord, Gardenia, hedione